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Choice of Metal in Jewellery Design

Written by Ciaran Vipond on July 04, 2019 | 0 Comments

The choice of metal for a piece of jewellery really comes down personal taste and preference. However, it can be useful to know a little more about the precious metals used in our range to help you select the right piece for you.

We offer several precious metals in our designs including gold, rose gold, white gold, Sterling silver, platinum and palladium, All are hallmarked here in Ireland in the Irish Assay office in historic Dublin castle.

Gold

Enduringly popular for thousands of years, gold is prized for its rarity, its resistance to tarnish, its weight and its lovely warm luster to this day. It is the most easily worked of all metals due to its softness, which is based on its purity.

Pure gold is too soft for practical use in jewellery on its own, so it is mixed with other metals to make an alloy that is more durable. The mix of metals will result in three different colours: yellow, white, and rose.

Through the alloying process, you also get different carats (K) or purities of gold, which impact colour, weight and price. This can also be referred to as the fineness. We offer 18K, 14K, 10K, and 9K gold in our jewellery hallmarked here in Ireland. The hallmark is a guarantee of the purity of the precious metal, and these small marks can be seen on all of our precious metal jewellery.

For jewellery that will be worn every day, 18K, 14K, 10K, and 9K gold all hold up very well to constant wear, especially for rings or bracelets. Due to its high percentage of gold (75%), 18K gold ages very well. It has the heaviest weight and a beautiful warm colour; however, this comes at a higher price. For our customers choosing yellow gold wedding or engagement rings, 14K is our most popular choice striking a great balance between cost and colour, weight and purity.

White Gold

White gold is made by mixing white metals, such as zinc, platinum and silver, with yellow gold to create a gold alloy with a white or light silver colour. Like yellow gold, white gold is durable and resistant to tarnishing, making it ideal for jewellery. However, it requires platinum or rhodium plating every few years to keep a brilliant white colour. This stops the natural yellow undertones from showing through.

It is a more cost effective white metal alternative to more expensive platinum or palladium. It is a very a popular choice for engagement rings in particular.

Rose Gold

Also known as pink or red, rose gold has become more popular recently and it is often used in two-tone jewellery alongside yellow or white gold to stunning effect. As with yellow gold, depending on what carat you choose, the colour and purity of the ring will differ. The intensity of the rose colour will increase with decreasing carat gold and a higher proportion of copper, the alloy metal for rose gold. The carat will also determine if the jewellery will will alter in colour over time with higher carat more resistant to developing a patina.

Gold Vermeil

Gold vermeil is a more cost effective option for those that want the beautiful look of gold jewellery at a lower price. Gold vermeil jewellery has a base metal of sterling silver which is then electroplated with gold, leaving a thin and even layer on the surface of the jewellery. Given it's make-up, gold vermeil jewellery is not as hard wearing as solid gold jewellery. With time the base metal can cause gradual fading of the gold colour and deep scratches can erode the gold layer.

Pieces like earrings, necklaces and brooches will last longer than rings and bracelets that are exposed to more wear and tear. Removing jewellery before doing a physical activity or taking a shower will also help in the upkeep of a vermeil finish. Storing jewellery in a sealed plastic bag when not worn can also help maintain a piece for longer. This makes it a popular choice for jewellery that will not be worn every day, but that, with care, can look great for many years to come.

Platinum

Although it has been used since the time of the ancient Egyptians, platinum has only recently again become a popular choice for jewellery. Use of this beautiful silvery-white, durable, and tarnish-resistant metal in jewellery dropped drastically in the 20th century when it was taken off the market for military use! The 21st century has seen a strong return to platinum use in jewellery with its admirable physical properties making it an ideal choice for wedding bands or engagement rings.

It is an extremely rare metal (30 times rarer than gold) and, as a result, has a significantly higher price than most other materials used in jewellery. Its beauty, rarity and physical properties have lead to its use in notable pieces, including the British crown jewels.

As with gold, platinum is commonly mixed with other metals to make an alloy. Platinum alloys are typically 95% platinum or higher. As platinum is a relatively hard and heavy metal, it is ideal for rings or bracelets or pieces that will be worn every day.

Silver

Used in jewellery for nearly as long as gold, silver is enduringly popular worldwide for beautiful jewellery, while remaining the most affordable of the precious metals. Like gold, pure silver is very malleable and soft and can be easily damaged. So it is commonly mixed with other metals to make alloys that are more suitable for sustained wear.

Sterling silver is the most popular of these alloys and has at least 92.5% silver, but it can be higher. We sell Sterling silver that is hallmarked here in Ireland at the Dublin Assay Office in historic Dublin Castle. This hallmark ensures the quality of the silver and is an indicator of the metal's purity.

Sterling silver has a beautiful colour and luster, and it can make for stunning and wearable jewellery that can stand the test of time. It is strong and durable, making it suitable for pieces like bracelets, rings and necklaces that will be worn regularly. Sterling silver can tarnish with time, but can be easily cleaned or polished to remove any patina that forms. Have a look at our blog post about how to care for silver jewellery here for more information.

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Ciaran Vipond

Ciaran Vipond

My Irish Jeweler

Born in Co. Antrim and reared in Dublin, I was fascinated with Gaelic culture from an early age. I suppose it's not surprising given my mother inherited a grá for the Irish language from my grandfather, an Irish school headmaster. And that grá continues! My brother and sister are now Gaelic teachers here in Ireland, my niece is an award winning Irish dancer, and I proudly work to share Irish culture through our Irish and Celtic Jewelry at My Irish Jeweler!

I love researching and reading about the history of Irish design. It's at the core of what we do here at My Irish Jeweler. I find much of it so interesting that I have to share what I find. I hope you enjoy it!

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