Everything you need to know about gold vermeil

Solid 10k, 14k or 18k gold, platinum and palladium are the go-to metals for marquee fine jewelry pieces such as wedding or engagement rings. But gold vermeil is an increasingly popular and affordable alternative for those looking for occasion jewelry with the lux look but without the weighty price tag.

Interested in adding a gold vermeil piece to your jewelry collection? You may have a few questions. Like what exactly is gold vermeil? Where was gold vermeil jewelry first developed? How is gold vermeil jewelry made? Does gold vermeil jewelry last? What type of jewelry is best suited to this technique? And how should I care for gold vermeil jewelry? Read on to find out the answers to these questions and more.

What is gold vermeil?

Gold vermeil is a metalworking technique also known as silver gilt or gilded silver. Simply put, gold vermeil is high-quality silver coated in a layer of high-quality gold.

For an item to be classed as gold vermeil two quality criteria must be met:

• The silver must be of sterling grade (92.5% silver) or higher
• The gold must be 10 karat or higher and a minimum thickness of 2.5 microns

So gold vermeil differs from gold plating, another common metalworking technique. Gold plated jewelry typically uses non-precious metals as a base rather than sterling silver and usually has thinner layers of gold. This increases the chance gold plate will tarnish and become visibly worn over time.

Where was gold vermeil jewelry first developed?

We have recently seen gold vermeil increasing in popularity with savvy shoppers. But it is by no means new and many places and cultures can lay claim to it.

The techniques involved in making gold vermeil can be traced back to the 4th century BC. Ancient Romans hammered fine gold leaf over silver to make ornaments, and the ancient Sicans of Peru gilded gold alloys. As did 7th Century Anglo-Saxon goldsmiths to make their gold stretch as far as they could! Chinese craftspeople gilt-bronze and the Korean "keum-boo" was also a method for silver-gilding.

The technique really took off in 18th century France. This was now the go-to move for goldsmiths tasked with fashioning large ornate golden objects including furniture and fixtures. And it has grown in use and popularity since then. Today gold vermeil is used in a diversity of fine pieces, including many Crown Jewels and since 1912, even Olympic gold medals!

How is gold vermeil jewelry made?

To make a gold vermeil piece, an item is first crafted out of fine sterling silver. Then a layer of gold is added to the surface using a process called electrolysis. During electrolysis an electrical current is used to chemically and permanently bond the gold and silver together.

Will gold vermeil jewelry last?

Gold vermeil archaeological artefacts in museums around the world are testament to the potential durability of this technique. With the right care and upkeep, gold vermeil jewelry will certainly last. But it can be susceptible to tarnish, especially when it is exposed to moisture or chemicals like sweat, perfume or hand sanitiser! And as the gold is a layer on the surface, some care must be taken against scratching or scuffing the item to keep it looking its best.

We use fine sterling silver and 14k gold in our gold vermeil which gives an excellent balance between the beautiful warm color of high-quality gold while not sacrificing durability, which can become an issue at higher, softer karats.

What type of jewelry is best suited to gold vermeil?

With only high-quality precious metals used, gold vermeil jewelry is a fabulous choice for occasion pieces that won’t be worn continuously. We would recommend gold vermeil for earrings and pendants especially as these pieces encounter less abrasion in daily wear.

Gold vermeil occasion rings can also work well. However, as they are often subjected to chemicals, scuffs and bangs - we would not recommend gold vermeil for rings that you intend to wear continuously e.g. wedding or engagement rings.

How to care for gold vermeil jewelry?

Many of the tips for maintaining gold vermeil are the same recommendations we would make for the care of any piece of precious jewelry. In our experience, if you can remember four easy steps, your jewelry will give you many years of problem-free wear.

Step 1 - Check your gold vermeil jewelry

Before you put any piece of jewelry on, including gold vermeil, give it a quick check for signs of wear and tear. Clasps or settings can be damaged by hard surfaces or can get caught on clothing. Check clasps close fully and that any stones don’t rattle in their setting. If you do find a damaged clasp or a loose setting, bring your piece to a local jeweler who can carry out the necessary repair for a small fee. This single step can make the difference between cherishing or losing a treasured piece of jewelry.

Step 2- Protect gold vermeil jewelry

Be sure to take off your gold vermeil jewelry if you are going to do anything that will expose it to chemicals, sweat, or grime!

Swimming pool chlorine, household cleaners, hand sanitizer, and bleach can damage most metals. Gold vermeil is no exception. Beware of rubber gloves for cleaning too as many contain sulfur which can discolor or tarnish silver, the base metal in gold vermeil.

Cosmetics, perfumes, cologne, and moisturizers can also build up on jewelry. This can cause irritation to sensitive skin or tarnishing of the jewelry itself. Put jewelry on only after any fragrance you are wearing has dried. And even your own sweat can be an issue - so try to remember to take your gold vermeil off if you are going to the gym or are heading to bed.

Step 3 - Clean gold vermeil jewelry

Even with care, the dust and grime of life can build up on a piece of jewelry. With sterling silver as a base, tarnish can also build up on gold vermeil. But this can be easily remedied with gentle cleaning with a soft, dry and clean cloth. We recommend using a microfiber cloth to lightly clean a gold vermeil piece each time you take it off.

If cleaning sounds like a little too much work or you are worried you may damage the item, many local jewelers have trained experts who provide such services for a small fee.

You can also safely clean off real dirt and grime if necessary at home but this is best avoided if at all possible. Use pure warm water to give your gold vermeil jewelry a rinse. Avoid using any sort of brush and be sure to dry completely with a soft, clean, microfiber cloth.

Step 4 - Store gold vermeil jewelry

We recommend gold vermeil for jewelry that will not be worn continuously. So when you are not wearing your gold vermeil, we advise storing it in individual containers. Containers with a soft, airtight interior or even small ziploc bags work well to avoid the build-up of tarnish that comes with exposure to moisture.

Never store gold vermeil in jewelry boxes, which ironically can be a dangerous place, with lots of other pieces to scratch, scuff, and otherwise damage the finish on the item. Also, avoid storage in places with extreme shifts in temperature as that can damage the finish and even crack precious gems like emeralds.

Follow these four steps, and with a little effort and a few seconds of care and attention here and there, your gold vermeil jewelry should give you many years of wear and look as beautiful as the day you got it.

Gold Vermeil Jewelry

After finding out more about gold vermeil jewelry, you may want to have a look at our collection of pieces using this ancient metalworking technique. They are a great option for those that want the gold look without the weighty price-tag. And with a little care, your gold vermeil jewelry can be cherished pieces in your collection for many years.