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A Visit To The Kingdom.

Written by Vicky Lowsley on Nov 07, 2023 | 0 Comments

Hello there,

You may have noticed that Notes From Home was on hiatus in October. I know you will have enjoyed your cúpla Cupán Tae with Ciarán and Gemma since then, which they plan to make a regular occurrence on YouTube. If you're not already subscribed to our channel, here's your sign - you don't want to miss the shenanigans or the giveaways!

While they were chatting with you all, Gemma mentioned that she was heading off to The Kingdom - the nickname for county Kerry - for a week's holiday. True to her word, she returned with some absolutely stunning photos. I'll be sharing some of them here so you can see some of what she saw. You can't say we don't look after you!

Half-term Holidays.

Schools in Ireland have a mid-term break at the end of October or the beginning of November, depending on which day the October bank holiday falls - it's always the last Monday of the month. This is always a popular time for short breaks and holidays as it gives parents and children time out before the various excitements and pressures that precede Christmas. It also neatly coincides with Hallowe'en, bucketloads of sweets and chocolate, and late nights. All in all, it's a win/win!

Gemma and her family decided it would be a great time to head off to revisit one of their favorite areas in the west of Ireland - Kerry.

First Stop: Ross Castle

On the banks of Lough Leane in Killarney National Park, you will find the beautiful Ross Castle. Built in the fifteenth century by the O'Donoghue Ross clan, the stronghold subsequently became a seat of the McCarthy Mór in the sixteenth century. Although he leased it to the Browne family, it was the McCarthy clan who held it against Cromwell's troops. Despite being one of the last castles to surrender around 1652, the defenders were finally forced to concede defeat against artillery and an assault from the lake.

The tenants - the Brownes - retained the lands as the current heir was considered too young for plotting! But in time, their loyalty to King James II of England caused them to be exiled and their castle used as an army barracks.

The castle is a five-storey stone and wood structure where the fourth and fifth floors were reserved for the ruler and his family. The castle still contains some examples of sixteenth and seventeenth century oak furniture. It's well worth a visit if you find yourself in the area, as one of our top six fairytale castles to see in Ireland!

There are also reportedly some supernatural goings on at the castle, as Jane outlined several years ago:

Legend has it that the old chieftain still slumbers under the waters of the lough. And if you happen to spot his ghost when he rides out on his white horse, it's said you will enjoy good fortune the rest of your days. So there is some consolation for being spooked by a ghostly rider!

Stop 2: Valentia Island.

Have you heard of Valentia Island? It's the fifth largest island off the Irish coast, with a permanent population of six hundred and fifty-eight people, according to the 2022 Irish Census. There are two towns - Knightstown and Chapel Town - on the island, which stretches approximately eleven miles in length and only two miles across. The name comes from the Irish name cuan Bhéil Inse (pronounced coo-an vail insha.) This roughly translates to the harbour at the mouth of the island.

One of Valentia's claims to fame is that the first ever transatlantic cable was laid between Valentia Island and Newfoundland in 1858. In fact, you can still visit the cable station on the island. Although the insulation failed and it had to be abandoned, that cable preceded the first permanently successful line by eight years. Read more about this great endeavour here. But this isn't Valencia's only claim to fame. It's also home to Ireland's favorite fossil - a trackway made by an early amphibian on the muddy banks of a river around 385 MILLION years ago! Seeing some of the first evidence on Earth for life making the move to terra firma, with a spectacular view of sea cliffs and the wild Atlantic, is a unique experience and worth a visit if you find yourself on the island.

Stop 3: Skellig Michael

Named for the archangel Michael and a site of hermitage since, at the latest, the sixth century of the Christian era, Skellig Michael has more than enough to capture the imagination, even before we bring in the inevitable link to Star Wars!

Although Skellig Michael is famous for its Augustinian monastic settlement that dates back to circa 6 AD and which prompted its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, there are hints that it was already an established site for hermits and learned men before the monks moved in.

Historians believe that the order for a Christian settlement on Skellig Michael dates back to Aristobulus, the first bishop of Roman Britain - a figure so well known that his household was given a "shout out" in Paul's Epistle to the Romans (ch. 16 v. 10.) Arwystli - pronounced Aroost-lee - as he was known in Welsh, is said to have died in Wales around 47 CE, and it's considered probable that he was the brother of the apostle Barnabas.

The Culdees, or Céile Dé.

The first inhabitants of the island were among those known as Culdees, from the Gaelic Céile Déi (pronounced kayla day), meaning Companions of God. There are many theories about the Culdees, but historians agree that they were ascetics who wished to live in isolation to avoid the world's distractions. They believed their solitary lives would help them to come closer to God. These were not monks by modern definition: they had no Rule, and although some lived in community, others lived alone. Their precedent was the Desert Fathers of the third century. Just as the Fathers moved to inhospitable regions to study and pray, the Culdees headed for wild, remote areas where they could practice their faith undisturbed.

It appears, however, that the men on Skellig Michael had regular guests, many of them very distinguished. St Cattwg (pronounced Cath-ug) or St Cadoc - depending on your preferred spelling - visited the island on several occasions when he was in Ireland. He thought so highly of the retreat that he subsequently supplied funding for the hermitage and chapel there.

It's believed that the last Culdee anchorite on the island was Gildas the Wise, incidentally a student of St. Cadoc, who died around 570 CE in France. Is it me, or does he sound like Gandalf's older brother?! As he spent the majority of his life in what is now Britain and France, it's likely that this period of retreat was not long-lived. However, it's the position of at least one historian that Gildas was the teacher of Finnian of Movilla. St Finnian is credited with founding the better-known Augustinian monastery in the area, whose more ascetic members settled on Skellig Mór during the sixth century CE. St. Finnian is also known to have taught Colmcille, otherwise known as Saint Columba, who went on to found the great monastery at Iona in Scotland, widely held to be the birthplace of the Book of Kells.

From little acorns, as the saying goes, do the mighty oaks grow!

Stop 4: The Gap of Dunloe.

The Gap of Dunloe is - understandably, I think we can all agree! - one of county Kerry's most magnificent spots for scenery. Running approximately seven miles north to south, the Gap has five lakes, a wishing bridge where all wishes made will come true, beautiful hill walks, and bouldering, too. I can't find any corroborating legend on the bridge which lies between Coosaun Lough and Black Lake, so don't take my word for it, but if you can attest to its powers, we'd love to hear from you!

I shall stop blathering now, and leave you to the majesty of the mountains cradling the beautiful valley below. Thank you, Gemma, for taking so many wonderful photos for us!

Final Notes For November!

Before I say goodbye for this month, please join me in wishing the happiest of birthdays, or Lá breithe sona, to our phenomenal dancing WebDev Danny, who's convinced he's now officially ancient, even though we know he's only just getting started! My Irish Jeweler wouldn't be what it is without him, and we know we are extremely lucky to have him on our team.

Also, please remember that our Black Friday sale starts the 16th of November: a perfect opportunity to bring some Celtic cheer beneath your Christmas tree this year! Gemma, Claire, and I are here to answer any questions you may have, and we're also pleased to offer advice for those tricky-to-buy-for friends and relations. C'mon, we all have at least one of them! Tell us a little bit about them, and we'll do our best to offer recommendations that will make your life easier and their holidays happier.

All the best, and we'll catch up again soon!

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Vicky Lowsley

Vicky Lowsley

My Irish Jeweler

My Welsh grandmother introduced me to two of my great loves in life before I was four years of age: she taught me to read and, under careful supervision, permitted me to look through her jewelry collection. Stories and shiny things have been my passions ever since!

In the almost forty years I have lived here, Ireland has changed dramatically in virtually every aspect. Among its constants, though, is the rich tradition of decorative adornment and storytelling in all its forms: from the ancient carvings at Newgrange, the beautiful golden torcs in the National Museum, and the world-famous Book of Kells, to our modern designers, writers, musicians, and craftspeople. Celtic creativity is more powerful today than ever, and that is why I'm honoured to hear your stories and share ours.

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